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Reel Maintenance & Rebuild

 

Daiwa Sol - Mini-Lube and Inspection (Also applies to Daiwa Alphas reels Ė all variations) (continued)

The level line worm shaft is held into the frame with a spring clip (retainer), washer, and holder (Parts 32-34).  It will be necessary to remove the clip retainer, so the washer and holder can be removed.  I like to use a 1/8 inch wide flat screwdriver to remove the retainer Ė carefully working the screwdriver tip between the end of the worm shaft and cutouts on the retainer.  [I give the screwdriver tip a twisting motion to do this.]  Just be careful not to distort the retainer, or damage the groove the retainer locks into or the worm shaft itself.  I also suggest keeping part of a finger or thumb on the retainer, since it can fly off as it is being removed and get lost.  Once the retainer is removed, you can remove the washer and holder located beneath it.

 

 

The worm is now ready to be slid part of the way out of the frame, so you can lift the anti-reverse ratchet (A/R Ratchet).  Rotate the level wind gear on the end of the worm, so the level wind worm can be unscrewed and partially slid out of the frame.  Once it is slid out, you can lift the anti-reverse ratchet, and gain access so the lower shaft bearing and the frame can be lubed.

 

 

 

The picture shows the locations which usually contain grease.  However, not all locations may need additional grease, depending on the condition of your reel.  In addition, some of the grease may be contaminated with debris or could have hardened, so it may need to be removed before applying new grease.  [You will have to use your own judgment in these cases.  Just remember, excess grease can splatter or run into areas that normally donít get greased (e.g. drag), so donít get carried away with the grease!]

 

Notice that some of the frame components have holes in them (clutch cam plate (Part 47) and drive shaft retainer (Part 70)).  These holes are purposely designed for adding grease, since they provide access to friction areas beneath them.  Just put a small dab of grease in the hole (if needed).

 

You can remove old or contaminated grease a number of ways.  Most use a brush, rag, and/or a hard wood stick to remove grease.  I do not recommend using q-tips or rag that will leave fibers, filaments or threads behind.  The grease in my Sol was in good shape, so I only needed to add a few dabs in a couple of locations.

 

 

 

Reassembly begins with sliding the anti-reverse ratchet (and the composite spacer washer (Part 75) back to the bottom of the drive shaft, so the level wind worm can be reattached to the other side of the frame.  Once the ratchet is on the bottom of the shaft, the worm drive gear can be turned to return the worm completely back into the frame.

 

The worm shaft holder, washer and retainer can now be installed to lock the worm back in place.  Exercise caution when reinstalling the retainer, so you donít damage the groove the retainer locks into.  Iíve found that it is easier to re-clip the retainer by lining up/starting the front edges into the groove, and then using a pliers to carefully squeeze the opposite side of the retainer onto the together.  Just be careful if you do this, so you donít get the retainer at an angle which will damage the soft metal lock groove or the face of the washer beneath it!  [I have also pushed the retainer back on with the blade of a flat screwdriver, but there is much more of a chance for the retainer to snap off and be lost if you arenít careful.]

 

The anti-reverse ratchet on low profile Daiwa reels rides on the outside of a machined edge on the bottom of the drive shaft.  If it is not positioned all the way down on this collar, the reel will not operate correctly Ė it will crank hard because the drive and pinion gears do not mesh correctly, and the drag will have very little adjustment range because the drive shaft length has been reduced.  [So, keep this in mind until the handle side plate is reinstalled on the reel.]  The ratchet can easily come out of the edge on the drive shaft if the reel is tilted during disassembly, and you wonít even know it.  Iíve marked the picture with a green arrow showing the correct mating of the ratchet and spacer washer to the drive shaft.  Here is the best tip that I can give you in this entire tutorial: Put a dab of grease on the ratchet and the spacer washer to help keep them in place.  The adhesion provided by the grease will help keep the ratchet and washer mated during assembly.

 

 

Put a dab of grease on the top of level wind gear (near itís tabs), and then put it on the bottom of the drive gear, aligning its tabs with the holes in the bottom of the drive gear.  Note that this is another place where you can have a problem if you are not careful, since the tabs can come out of the drive gear during reassembly, and the two gears will not be mated correctly.  If this happens, you will have a difficult time installing the handle side plate later, since it will not fit up tightly against the frame Ė so also keep this in mind if you have problem getting the side plate and frame together.

 

The level wind drive gear and drive gear can be installed on the drive shaft together, but look beneath the drive gear to insure both are still adhered together, and are resting on top of the spacer washer and anti-reverse ratchet beneath them.

 

 

 

The drag stack can be installed as shown in the schematic, but here are a few tips.  When installing the eared washers, be sure to get them completely aligned in the key slots that have been machined in the drive gear, and make sure the bottom one is fitted all the way down into the bottom of the drive gear before stacking the others.  Do not allow grease or oil to contact the washers and discs as you assemble the stack.  It is a good practice to recheck that the eared washers are riding correctly in the drive gear slots, just prior to installing the cover plate, since they can easily work their way out.

 

The pinion gear can be placed in the yoke, and both can be put over the yoke posts, so the pinion rests in its bearing.  Install the springs on each post over the yoke, and put a dab of grease in the 3 locations shown in the picture.

 

 
I like to install the gear shaft collar on the drive shaft at this time, because some Daiwa low profile reels utilize keys on the collar to mate with the top drag washer, and it is too difficult to mate them later.  In addition, any excess grease that is pushed out of the shaft roller bearing as the side plate is installed will not end up in the drag stack.

 

 

Put a small dab of grease on the face of the side plate pinion gear bearing (Part 58) and on the inside of the drive shaft roller bearing (Part 83) as shown in the picture (if required).  Try to keep excess grease from getting into opening where pinion gear fits into its bearing, because it could foul the operation of spool tension adjustment.  Be sure to reinsert the plate that keeps the clutch cam spring in position (location circled in the picture), if it came out. [Some Daiwa reels hold this plate on with an adhesive, and others only use silicone grease, so the plate may or may not come out.]

 

Check the position of the anti-reverse ratchet, the washer right above it (Part 74), the drive gear and the drag stack for correct mating, one last time.

 

 

Position the handle plate cover over the drive shaft and pinion gear, so they align up with their respective bearing.  Lower the plate cover down over the shaft and pinion until the base of the plate is touching the edge of the frame.  [A slight amount of pressure will tend to keep the two pieces separated, due to the cam springs, but this will be very small.]  It should take very little effort to get the two pieces to completely mate, so if it takes much force, something may not right Ė do not force it!  [Excessive force can damage the eared washers, side plate, and other components, so investigate the cause for the problem.]  Install the plate screws and tighten them up only after ensuring there is no problem.  Be careful not to mar or scratch the plate when reinstalling screws.

 

 

Put a very light coat of reel oil on the pinion shaft, and insert it through the spool adjustment collar into the pinion gear.  Install the spool adjustment cap on the collar, but just start it on a few threads threads, since if you tighten too much, the pinion will interfere with reinstallation of the spool (and palm plate).

 

 

Install the outer shaft bearing and ensure it is firmly fitted into its mount Ė the mount may be a little tight on a new reel.  Install the thin shaft bearing washer on top of the bearing.

 

 

Install the drag spring washers, so they are cupped inward and opposite of each other (see picture).  If the washers are cupped on top of each other, drag adjustment will only work thru a very small range, and the shaft will play excessively (excessive inward and outward slop/movement of the shaft).  Excessive shaft play can result in the gears not meshing correctly and chattering, especially under light drag settings Ė which can damage drive components.  (On some Pixies and the Alphas ito, the anti-reverse ratchet can even come off of itís machined edge on the bottom of the drive shaft, or the level wind gear tabs can come out of the bottom of the drive gear, if the reel is engaged in this condition Ė and you wonít know it even happened until later.  So donít engage the reel until there is sufficient drag tension on the drive shaft, and install the drag spring washers correctly.)

 

Put a small dab of grease between the two drag spring washers and on top of the top washer as shown in the picture.

 

 

Carefully thread the drag star onto the drive shaft, being careful not to cross-thread and damage the fine tapered threads.  [Remember it will thread the direction than you crank.)  The star should spin freely after it is initially started, and will only tighten once the drag spring washers start to compress.  Continue to tighten the drag star until the edge of the shaft where the handle cup washer (spacing sleeve, (Part 89)) clears the top of the drag star, and then continue for at least another full turn.  If you tighten the handle down with its cup washer resting on drag star and not the edge on the drive shaft, you can damage the threads inside the drag star.  Install the handle cup washer over the drive shaft.

 

 

 

Place the handle over the top of the handle cup washer, install and tighten the handle nut so it aligns with the hole for the handle screw, and then tighten the handle screw.  Do not over tighten the nut, since you can damage the washer beneath it.  Be careful not to strip the screw.

 

Insert the spool into the frame and lineup the shaft so the clutch bearing inserts into its mount.  If the spool wonít go in all the way, first try pressing the release bar to disengage the spool.  If that doesnít work, the spool tension setting is probably set too high,  which is preventing the bearing from seating fully Ė so back off the spool tension adjustment a little more.

 

Once the spool is fully inserted, line up the palm plate so the spool shaft starts into the spool bearing and lock tabs, and rotate the palm plate to engage the tabs.  Tighten the screw in the center of the magnet brake adjustment knob, to lock down the plate.

 

 

Check the condition of the level wind worm.  It is the very susceptible to picking up debris, because of the exposed grease.  If necessary, you can remove debris with a small brush. Add grease as shown in the picture, and you are done!


TackleTour would like to extend a big warm official welcome to ChuckE, long time contributor to the TT community, to our TT "Gear Crew" staff. His wealth of knowledge in bearings, upgrades, and general reel maintenance is a welcome addition to the information available to TackleTour readers.

   

                                        


 

 

 

 

 

 
 





 

 



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