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Line Review


Far from Hollow, Off the Deep End with Seaguar's Threadlock (continued)

Casting: Seaguar's Threadlock is very soft and supple with no discernible coating over the line, so it flows off your reel effortlessly and at times, too effortlessly resulting in a backlash. I had difficulty dialing the settings on one reel, my Conquest 301. As a result, I lost two somewhat expensive swimbaits, a Megabass iSlide 262T and a Pizz Swimbaits full size DDT. By lost, I mean the baits broke off mid-cast thanks to a backlash where the line stopped, but the baits continued on their journey never to be seen again. I've made the necessary adjustments to that reel's settings and haven't had an issue since, but it was a rather expensive lesson.

Other than that one temperamental reel, I've had zero issues in other installations of this line and actually really enjoy the way it handles

Other than that one temperamental reel, I've had zero issues in other installations of this line and actually really enjoy the way it handles. I've never been a fan of braided line products with coatings that make the line stiff, waxy and in some cases unnaturally slick, so the fact Threadlock doesn't seem to have these properties, is a real plus in my book.

Because my connections can be made more reliably, I swap out my leader before each and every trip

Abrasion: Now because Threadlock does not have a protective coating, its resistance to abrasion likely isn't very good. I say "likely" because if you use Threadlock in its intended application, as a mainline with a leader, it won't be exposed to very many abrasive situations. That's the job of your leader. On the flip side, if for whatever reason a portion of your mainline does become abraded, if you pack a loop needle on your trip, depending on where that abrasion took place, you can actually cut that abraded portion of line out, and splice the remaining piece back to the mainline as if that worn section was never there.

Joining remnants of hollow braid together or attaching a new leader out on the water are accomplished in the same manner


You begin by overlapping three to four feet of line

All you need to accomplish this is eighteen inches or more of clean, non-abraded line behind where your leader is inserted into the Threadlock. You'll also at least eighteen inches of line beyond that point, but it won't matter if that portion is a bit worn. It's better if it is not, but you can still manage if it is. What you do then, is cut the top part of your line that contains the abraded portion off from your main line, then measure off at minimum, the needed lengths as mentioned above. If you have more line than that, all the better.

Then, with a loop needle (Literally a needle with a loop at the end instead of a hollow opening) you insert at the middle of that overlap in one line and stick the tag of the other into the loop in the needle


This allows you to take that other line into the first threading it through just like new leader material

In the end, you will match up the good portion of your top line with the mainline, overlapping three to four feet. Mark the center of that overlap so that there is eighteen inches to two feet of tag line on either side. Then, with the loop needle, you insert the tag ends on each side, one at a time, into the other line at that center point. When you're done, the hollow braid will grip each side and behave as one cohesive unit. As long as any remaining abrasion is on the inside, you're good to go until you get home and can effect a cleaner connection or a brand new leader.

When you're done with the one, turn around and do it again with the other tag end. The result should be a small loop like this with the two ends of the hollow braid inserted to the other line

I used this technique to join two left over portions of hollow braid together making enough to fill a reel and not waste any of the left over line. You can do this even with different brands of hollow braid as long as the diameters are similar. The more traditional use of this technique is to attach new, pre-made leaders into the mainline in the middle of a long trip. Instead of packing all your tools to install fresh leaders, you simply thread leader material onto sections of hollow braid leaving four feet of unfilled hollow braid at the end for use in joining to your main line.

Pull that tight and wind it onto your reel and you've made another connection. This is useful for line repairs, attaching pre-tied leaders, and joining remnant lengths of line together

Noise: With all these splices and other connections, you'd think each time one of these connection points came through your guides, you'd hear a "tick," but the only time I hear anything while fishing with Threadlock is when my serve knot comes through the guides. It's not really a knock though, it's just a quick sound of the friction as that served knot goes through each guide because after applying the TAC glue over the serve, the knot hardens. Otherwise, Threadlock is relatively quiet through the guides. It's not silent, but it is quiet.

All these special connections hold tight with tension thanks to the unique properties of hollow braid

Impact/Knot Strength: There are no knots in your mainline when using hollow braid, so knot strength is only a concern with your leader material. I had zero issues with impact strength even during forceful hooksets fishing everything from jigs to big swimbaits so Threadlock certainly has my confidence there. Really, the only small bit of concern of this nature when using a hollow braid product from any brand is whether your leader is going to pull out, and quite simply, if installed properly, that will not be an issue.

There are no knots in your mainline when using hollow braid, so knot strength is only a concern with your leader material at the point you attach to your lure

Case in point? I had a nice tug of war with one fish on that 10 pound AbrazX leader. I ended up pairing that reel, my Chronarch MGL, with an ARK Fishing Cobb Series BB73MHFC. I caught the fish on a jig and somehow, I had difficulty moving it. At one point during the battle, when the fish was visible next to the boat, but still too deep to reach with the net, I could see the fish's mouth was closed with the AbrazX caught between the fish's teeth. Ten pound AbrazX is so thin, given how tough this fish was fighting, I was worried I might lose it to an abrasion break. In the end, all it took was a few extra moments of constant pressure and the fish eventually came right up. Leader connection, leader, all survived. A quick retie later to remove the abraded portion of my leader and I was back in business. 50lb Treadlock held fast to that super thin, 10lb AbrazX leader.

The result of that tug of war with 50lb Threadlock, 10lb AbrazX and an unusually stubborn bass

Next Section: Longevity and mixing leaders









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