The Guides: In the build article published before this one (Phenix's B-USB-C 790H), I discussed my reasoning to go with a spiral configuration on my personal builds so there's no need to explore that discussion once more. Instead, let's talk about my choice in guides for this build. I like the advantages micro-guide layouts provide, but at my age, I find them increasingly difficult to string my line through. They can also be problematic if you participate in the leader game and tie a connection knot. So instead of micros, I'm following the industry trend with a small-ish guide train which, for me, means settling on #6 sized runners (sometimes #5.5).

Fuji's RV guides are engineered for reverse orientation so that the single leg side (left) faces the reel and the double legs (right) point towards the tip

For the stripper and transition guides, I chose Fuji's RV guides with the reverse orientation. Borrowing from my experience fishing Gan Craft's Dead Sword Shaku-One that features a full array of these guides, I like the idea of relying on that engineering advantage of uninterrupted casting performance. Fuji has engineered these guides to have the single leg side facing the reel so to minimize the chances of your line hitting the guide's support legs while flying off the reel during a cast. It's one of those differences you can't really feel, but once its presented to you, makes so much sense, why not take advantage? Additionally, those reversed double legs on these guides are built with Fuji's "K-concept" featuring a rounded shape to allow any potential braid loops that can develop after the cast and especially on windy days, to slide off the guide frames for tangle free performance.

Fuji's Arowana tip tops get their name from the shape of the support arms - rounded like an arowana's mouth. This shape minimizes the occurrence of line wrap with braid

For the actual guide material, I chose titanium frames with SiC inserts. Torzite would have been the enthusiast choice here, but I had to draw the line of expense somewhere and felt the titanium frames alone were enough of an enhancement. The difference between stainless steel frames and titanium is another improvement you can't really discern, but that goal of saving weight is most critical where the guides sit in the last two thirds of the rod, so I like the thought of lighter frames. For the tip top I chose Fuji's Arowana (again Ti/SiC) for the exaggerated leg design to again minimize the potential for looping tangles. The actual running guides is where I made a departure from Fuji. To mimic the hybrid guide train of an NRX rod, I chose Recoils in the previously mentioned size 6 and the black pearl finish. They're specified as spinning rod guides, but are so small, there's no real difference. Besides, since I'm spiral wrapping the guides, the runners will be on the underside of the rod anyway.

Fuji's Perfect Fit Reel Seat Trim Rings are a good way to add a little intrigue at the transition point between reel seat and rear handle

That Bit of Intrigue: One of the details I look for in a stock rod is how the manufacturer handles that transition between handle components, materials, and the blank. There are many different strategies ranging from doing nothing to providing special thread wraps to designing and installing custom trim pieces. For my builds, where possible, I'm a fan of the metal winding checks. I say where possible, because sometimes I just don't want to go through the trouble of measuring everything out and waiting for pieces to arrive. Although more commonly, I measure things out and order the wrong piece anyway requiring a re-order, at which point I grow too impatient and say to myself forget it. It can be maddening, and unless you have a rod building supply shop near your house, there's not much you can really do to get around the wait time.

But they can also be used at back end of the rod...

All that aside, Fuji makes a line of trim pieces that have recently caught my attention. From what I can tell, there are two series. One is their Perfect Fit Reel Seat Trim rings designed to sit between the reel seat and rear grip. However, you can also use these trim pieces mid-grip and at the butt. It just takes an understanding of the inside and outside diameters you're dealing with to ensure everything matches up. They make them in single or double width. The double width rings make an excellent accent mid-grip à la Megabass. Case in point, I've found a combination of CFX's carbon grips that make a very attractive, full handle assembly featuring a Fuji RSTDR ring as the accent. It just takes a little bit of measuring to find the ideal transition points, but once everything is cut, aligned, and installed, the result is a nicely sculpted, full rear handle with a bit of JDM feel to it.

... or if you're creative enough, in the middle of the grip giving your build a little JDM-like flair

The second series of accent pieces is Fuji's Perfect Fit Winding Checks available in solid and double stripe configurations. These rings provide nice accent pieces at the end of each section of the split grip, inside the split reel seat, and for the size 17 seats, at the top of the seat. I used a size 16 seat, so the Perfect Fit Winding Checks were just a hair too large for the reel seat hood to fit over. As a result, to cap off the reel seat on this build, I instead chose a Matagi D16-FR Winding Check.

To cap off the reel seat on this build, instead, I chose a Matagi D16-FR Winding Check

So with that long and arduous process of deciding on the build configuration, taking the necessary measurements and ordering all the handle materials out of the way, I could finally to get to the build! The table below lists all the parts I used and the total cost of all those parts excluding shipping and tax. Keep in mind if you borrow this list and ask for a similar build from a custom builder, this also does NOT include the labor to put everything together not to mention the initial consultation time. Please do not take for granted the effort our custom builders put forth in building your rods. Also not to be dismissed is the experience they've accumulated to not make the mistakes hobbyists like myself make and continue to make during the ordering and build process

Fuji's RST19DR installed in its intended location between the grip and reel seat

Real World Tests: On the other hand, feel free to deride my builds as much as you like. I do this for the joy of creating and make no claims to be an expert or even be very good at this. However, there is a certain joy in fishing a stick you put together yourself. When all was said and done, I paired this PB731HXF build with my modified Limited Edition 2005 Daiwa Airy Red Pixy. This Pixy has upgraded bearings, drag materials, bearings installed in the levelwind, a TDZ line guide, and aftermarket handle by Avail. I spooled the reel with 50 yards of 20lb Daiwa X8 JBraid and installed a 12lb leader of Seaguar Gold Label FC using an Albright knot.

When I began my rod building journey, I didn't bother with applying the labels that came with the blanks. Now that it's become a regular hobby, I've had to change course on that thought in order to keep the builds straight

Casting: When I originally purchased this blank, it came with a lure specification of 1 - 2 ounces. After it arrived, I liked the feel of it so much, I immediately ordered a second. But the second blank came with a different specification of 1/2 - 1 1/4 ounces. Double checking the model numbers on the sticker that came with the rod, they're the same blank. Apparently Point Blank updated the specifications sometime between my first and last order. This discovery actually made me less excited about the blank because I wanted that two ounce rating at the upper end to accomplish my goal of a finesse punching stick.

My second build on this blank served as a good excuse to get some time on the water with my Daiwa Zillion SV TW 1000

I built the second blank almost identical to the first only more understated with the trim rings and a full reel seat instead of split. I chose the full seat for the second build partially because the SKTS16 was out of stock, but also I wanted to fish a full and split seat side by side on similar builds for comparison's sake. Such are the lengths I go to sometimes.

But my original combo with my 2005 Pixilla was difficult to put down

I paired my second build with my 2021 Daiwa Zillion SV TW 1000 spooled with 20lb Seaguar Smackdown Braid and a leader of 12lb Sunline Maboroshi FC (connected via an Albright knot). After fishing both builds on a handful of trips, I can say that updated rating is more accurate than the original. The PB731HXF is definitely on the lighter side of heavy. In fact, if you visit Point Blank Rod's website and view the blank specifications page, as of today anyway, the PB731HXF and PB731MHXF share almost identical ratings save for a one quarter of an ounce (1/4oz) difference at the top end of their respective lure ratings.

The blank's sensitivity surprised me

Next Section: Sensitivity, Power, and Build Costs