Reel Bearings 301: Maintenance, Design, and Troubleshooting (continued)

Roller
Clutch Bearing Troubleshooting:
Roller clutch bearings are
used in many reels to prevent reverse rotation of the handle shaft and other
drive components. Some reels may also use ratchets or cogs in addition to this
bearing, to ensure the spool does not rotate backward and to reduce handle
back-play. (And still, some reel manufacturers even use a clutch bearing as
part of the spool; although it increases the overall weight of the spool.) A
clutch bearing essentially locks up if rotation is in the wrong direction,
preventing the load (e.g. shaft, tube, handle, or collar), from rotating
backwards. Reel manufacturers sometimes refer to it as the Infinite
Anti-Reverse, Roller Clutch or Shaft Roller Bearing in their schematics and
parts list.

Roller
Clutch Bearing Unlocked (left) and Locked (right)
A typical infinite
anti-reverse bearing (roller clutch bearing) uses springs that compress
and allow the rollers to move freely in the normal direction. The springs also
align and help position the rollers so they will lock into the tapered edges on
its cage (retainer), if rotated in the reverse direction. A few designs
actually work just the opposite – where springs push the roller out of the
locked position. Regardless of the type, the rollers must be free to travel so
they will lock, yet not so loose that they will slip due to insufficient
friction with the shaft (load). The springs may be metal or plastic, and they
are frequently molded onto the cage as shown in the picture.

Typical
Clutch Bearing Cage and Molded Spring (left) and Diagram Showing the Locked
Configuration (right)
Although a clutch bearing
is a type of rolling bearing, it would be “ideal” if it did not carry
much radial load. There are two reasons for this:
-
The alignment of the
shaft through a clutch bearing is very important to its operation, since the
slightest amount of radial load could cause the rollers to tilt and not
initially mate correctly into the tapered edges on the retainer.
-
The clearances between
the load and the casing (or outer race on a few designs), is usually not as
close as in a regular roller bearing, because you want the rollers to be
able to move freely so they lock firmly between the load and the retainer.
The bottom line is that the bearing is just to ‘sloppy’ to really carry any
meaningful radial load unless it incorporates many small rollers instead of
a few larger rollers.
Some reel manufacturers
(e.g. Daiwa and others) provide a ball bearing very close to the clutch bearing
to carry any radial loads and maintain correct alignment through the bearing –
and this type of design helps ensure the clutch bearing does not slip and
back-play is minimized. In addition, manufacturers can often reduce the overall
weight of the reel by eliminating the need for a heavy clutch bearing race and
metal cage, if they use a ball bearing near the clutch bearing. Since the trend
in recent reels is to reduce the overall weight of the reel, more and more
manufacturers are starting to use a ball bearing at the clutch bearing to carry
radial loads.
Clutch bearings can wear,
become fouled, need to be lubed and get damaged similar to other bearings in a
reel. When this occurs, the bearing may not lock; it can slip, chatter or feel
rough; or the reel can have more handle back-play than it once did. In
addition, the type and amount of lube used on some clutch bearings can also
result in similar problems, due to the design configuration of the reel.
Some of the more common
problems encountered on roller clutch bearings are provided in the table below.
Typical causes and solutions are also provided. However remember, clutch
bearing and anti-reverse schemes can vary, so the table may not be completely
representative of all reels.
Clutch Bearing Problems,
Causes and Solutions
|
Bearing Problem |
Cause |
Cause |
|
Excess handle
back-play (more than it once did) |
Fouled bearing |
Clean |
|
Worn/damaged springs |
Inspect/replace |
|
Worn/damaged tapers |
Inspect/replace |
|
Outer ball bearing
damaged |
Check bearing and its
socket/replace |
|
Slipping (very
excessive back play) |
Fouled bearing |
Clean |
|
Worn/damaged tapers on
edges of cage |
Inspect/replace |
|
Worn rollers (or
surface they contact on load) |
Inspect/replace |
|
Excess lube/too light
a lube |
Clean and re-lube |
|
Outer ball bearing
worn |
Check bearing/replace |
|
Chattering (in reverse
direction) |
Similar to slipping |
Similar to slipping |
|
Cage installed
backwards (after doing maintenance?) or not installed all the way into the
housing |
Check orientation of
cage in case and make sure the retainer is flush with the housing |
|
Rough (or noisy) |
Fouled bearing |
Clean |
|
Damaged roller(s) |
Inspect/replace |
|
Damaged spring(s) |
Inspect/replace |
|
Outer ball bearing
worn or dirty |
Clean/inspect bearing
and replace if necessary |
|
Insufficient lube |
Check ball bearing and
its socket |
|
Handle shaft affecting
outer ball bearing alignment and rotation |
Check handle shaft for
corrosion, burr, etc. where it fits on center race |
|
Chattering or noisy
(in forward direction) |
Debris in bearing |
Clean |
|
Worn cage |
Inspect/replace |
|
Needs lube |
Add lube |
|
Handle shaft bearing
fouled or worn |
Check condition of
shaft bearing near clutch |
|
Not Locking (after
cleaning/adding lube) |
Grease is too heavy or
oil is too viscous (possible over lube?) |
Clean and switch to
lighter lube (or don’t add as much lube) |
|
Cage installed
backwards |
Check orientation of
cage in the case and insure it is mounted completely into the case |
|
Slipping (after
cleaning/ adding lube) |
Grease or oil
viscosity too low |
Clean and switch to a
heavier lube (or don’t add as much lube) |
|
Metal springs
installed backwards |
Check orientation of
springs |
|
Cage not sitting
properly in case |
Check to ensure cage
is flush with case (and case is mounted properly in frame) |
|
Outer roller bearing
not seated correctly or damaged |
Check condition of
roller bearing located near clutch bearing |
|
Slipping/Not Locking
in low temperatures or excessive back-play in low temperatures |
Lube affected by
temperature |
Switch to a different
lube (possibly clean and re-lube with less lube) |
|
Moisture affecting
movement of rollers |
Dry out bearing and
consider re-lube |
In a strange twist on
things, you actually need some friction for a clutch bearing to work properly.
Without friction, the rollers may not move correctly into the locking tapers on
the cage or may not lock on to the shaft once they get there. However, too much
friction (e.g. due to the viscosity of the lubricant) can also prevent the
rollers from moving correctly.
A few reels (e.g. some
Shimano’s and Abu’s), are especially prone to slippage or not locking due to a
lack of a ball bearing near the clutch bearing, and the number of rollers and
angle of the tapers on the bearing retainer. Although most problems with these
reels seem to occur while using certain lubes and/or in cold weather, users have
adopted one of three general approaches to preclude problems from occurring (you
will have to determine what works best for your Shimano or Abu reel and
situation):
-
Don’t do anything to
the clutch bearing if at all possible. If it works fine, don’t try to fix
it. (Some reels have been known to work properly over a few seasons with
the clutch bearing not re-lubricated – especially if the reel is stored and
otherwise reasonably maintained.) If you eventually have to clean it, then
do either of the two below.
-
Only wipe a very small
amount of lube on the rollers when servicing the bearing. One small drop of
oil on a stick or dowel can be used to put a light-thin film on all of the
rollers.
-
Only put a very small
film of grease on the clutch tube when servicing the bearing. The grease on
the tube will be sufficient for proper operation as it spreads through the
rollers.
The condition of the
springs and cages on a clutch bearing can also affect how well it performs.
Springs can loose their spring force over time and they can wear, corrode,
become distorted or flattened with use. Polyethylene and nylon cages are
especially prone to damage from debris, and their tapers can thin due to the
frequent contact with the rollers. So be sure to also inspect the springs and
cages when cleaning the bearing. By the way, keeping a roller bearing clean is
the best way to mitigate wear of plastic and nylon cages.
Conclusion:
Could there possibly be more?! If you have
completed Bearing 101 through 301 then your well on your way to becoming a
bearing connoisseur, but ChuckE still has more bearing wisdom to teach the
committed. Were not yet done exploring the ins and outs of bearings and the next
tutorial will go even further into reel bearing applications. Stay tuned!
